裴淳華 | 迪奧2022年春夏時(shí)裝高級(jí)定制

You know, I come to Paris without my children, without my family, and there’s a great temptation to just...sit by the Seine and read the newspaper and drink coffee. That’s what I’d really like to be doing.

我沒(méi)帶孩子和家人，獨(dú)自一人來(lái)到巴黎，我很想……坐在塞納河邊看報(bào)紙，喝咖啡。這就是我真正想做的事情。

It’s easy to lose track of time here. So, I should probably think about getting ready. To embody a new character, It’s important to find little things that help you to leave yourself behind.

在這里很容易忘記時(shí)間。所以，我也許應(yīng)該考慮開(kāi)始準(zhǔn)備了。要體現(xiàn)一個(gè)新的角色，重要的是要找到一些小東西讓你忘記你是誰(shuí)。

Costume is so important. And for me it’s all about movement. The two things are inextricably linked. For instance, with the character I’m playing now I know how I want to move, therefore I know what I need the clothes to do. I need to be able to make shapes, and I think it’s important to know what shapes your clothes can make.

服裝很重要。對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，服裝有關(guān)一切舉止活動(dòng)，這兩點(diǎn)密不可分的。比如我現(xiàn)在扮演的角色，我想知道她要如何移動(dòng)，就得知道如何用服裝來(lái)輔助。我要想擺出造型，就得知道你的服裝的造型，這點(diǎn)很重要。

It’s quite exciting what I’ve chosen to wear, because I think for Haute Couture it’s important to mark the occasion, to enter into the spirit of that little bit of extra: the magic.

挑選穿搭衣服非常令人興奮，因?yàn)槲矣X(jué)得對(duì)于高級(jí)時(shí)裝來(lái)說(shuō)，重要的是要紀(jì)念這一時(shí)刻，把自己想象成為魔法的一個(gè)組成部分。

I found this fantastic padded dress, a bit like a winter coat made of padded fabric, but cut like a complete classic Dior new look 1947 dress. And the combination is that lovely tightrope of classic and modernity, which I love.

這件軟墊連衣裙非常漂亮，我覺(jué)得有點(diǎn)像一件用軟墊織物制成的冬衣，但剪裁的完全像一件迪奧1947年經(jīng)典時(shí)裝。這是經(jīng)典與現(xiàn)代的完美結(jié)合，我很喜歡。

I’m just deciding whether or not I might wear a little veil with it. There’s something obviously mysterious and playful about a veil. Like a bride in black. The mystery. It’s very important to prep your face but also your lips. It’s like a drink for your lips. I’m ready for make-up.

我在想我要不要戴一個(gè)小面紗。面紗絕對(duì)是一種神秘有趣的東西，就像一個(gè)穿黑色衣服的新娘：神秘感。讓你的臉和嘴唇隨時(shí)待命很重要，就像一款合口味的飲料。我要準(zhǔn)備化妝了。

I use my hands like a palette, always. I prefer small brushes. I think the face is a delicate thing. And here is a little area in the waterline of the eye which is very delicate, and I think it’s important to lift the eye because you want the line to go up, not the eye be pulled down.

我總是把自己的手當(dāng)（化妝）調(diào)色板用。我更喜歡小刷子。我覺(jué)得臉是個(gè)很精致的地方。這里是眼睛水線(xiàn)上的一個(gè)小區(qū)域，非常精致，我覺(jué)得讓眼角往上提很重要，你希望這條線(xiàn)向上走，而不是眼睛被耷拉下來(lái)。

So I always take out these little corners, and then push it in with the heat of my finger. I think make-up is never a mask, it’s a veil. I think grey is always very chic. I always have a very different scent when I’m playing a character. I don’t want to be all dressed in a costume and then have my own familiar scent.

所以我總是把這眼角這個(gè)地方空出來(lái)，然后用手指的熱量把眼影推進(jìn)去。我覺(jué)得化妝從不是戴面具，而是面紗。我一直覺(jué)得灰色很潮。我每扮演一個(gè)角色，都會(huì)帶著一種不同的香味。我不想一直穿著戲裝，那樣身上就會(huì)一直有我熟悉的味道。

I’m just deciding whether to wear one earring or whether to wear two. I think one is cool, but I think that I like the little bit of movement that this one gives.

我在想是戴一只耳環(huán)還是戴兩只。我覺(jué)得戴一只很酷，但我覺(jué)得戴這一只會(huì)動(dòng)感一點(diǎn)。

I think it was really witty of Maria Grazia to hold the show in front of these embroideries, because you have the composure of the models, their structure, and then behind them you have this raw energy of these embroideries.

瑪麗亞·格拉齊亞（迪奧創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)）很聰明，她用刺繡工藝時(shí)裝來(lái)?yè)纹鹱咝闱皥?chǎng)。因?yàn)槟隳芸吹侥Ｌ氐淖藨B(tài)，時(shí)裝的結(jié)構(gòu)，透過(guò)這些你能看到這些刺繡品的原始能量。

And I think you see something like this and... Okay are we looking at animals or are we looking at people? What’s amazing is when you see what looks like one thread on a bare back and you know it’s only possible because the structure on the front supports it. It's like building a bridge.

我們會(huì)看到一些這樣的東西，那......我們看到的是動(dòng)物還是人？令人驚奇的是，當(dāng)你看到（模特）光禿禿的背上只有一根線(xiàn)，是因?yàn)闀r(shí)裝前面的結(jié)構(gòu)在支撐它。這就像在建造一座橋。

I love the fact that Maria Grazia can play with silvers and things that catch the light and then she can use her blacks and dark colors, they’re really saturated and they absorb light.

瑪麗亞·格拉齊亞對(duì)銀色和捕捉光線(xiàn)這塊很在行，她會(huì)使用黑色和深色，讓它們看起來(lái)很飽滿(mǎn)，還可以吸收光線(xiàn)，我非常喜歡。

I almost feel a female energy in his work and a masculine energy in her work. To me this seems to be an embodiment of femininity. Thank you, Maria Grazia. Thank you.

我能感受到到她的作品中兼有有一種女性和男性的能量。對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，這似乎是女性氣質(zhì)的體現(xiàn)。謝謝你，瑪麗亞·格拉齊亞。謝謝。

Note:

Lose track

To no longer know what is happening, or not to remember something 忘記；跟不上最新的情況

I've lost track of the number of times he's asked me to lend him money.

我記不起他有多少次問(wèn)我借錢(qián)了。

Enter/get into the spirit

To show enthusiasm and enjoyment 全身心投入；積極熱情地參與

They went to the tennis club a few times but never really got into the spirit of it.

他們?nèi)チ藥状尉W(wǎng)球俱樂(lè)部，但從未真正投身其中。